The Times of India: A Ritzy Affair!

May 17, 2011

We cannot quite figure out why this sleek wine bar with great food to go with it has such a mischievous name, but rest assured; there’s no monkey business here. It’s a refined of the kind that is not often seen in our neck of the woods; plenty of natural wood and no fuss in the detailing, L’Angoor has an eclectic wine list that travels across the new and old worlds and has a few surprises as well;  American wines, for examples, include the relatively uncommon region of Washington State in the Pacific North West. It also has a comprehensive spirits menu as well as a completely separate lunch and dinner menu. Where the real accent lies is in the dinner menu. While no attempt has been made to define the type of restaurant that L’Angoor is, it works just fine as a modern American one, which makes it the only one of its kind in the NCR. The three states that make up the Pacific North West; Washington, ldaho  and Oregon are where the giants share of prime ingredients originate, and the region does showcase the kind of menu that L’Angoor has put together, whether by accident or design.

Duet of chilled melon (Rs.180) is a masterpiece that is served in a martini glass. Musk melon and Watermelon have been minimally seasoned and served so that the colours remain separate. The disappointment of the meal was an overly sweet orange and squash soup (Rs.180). Blue summer crabcakes (Rs.450) are not a very common offering in the NCR, but if well-made, they are gastronomic delight. This version was quite creditable but fell short because of the amount of mashed potato used. L’Angoor chicken with mustard infused cabemet Sauvignon Wine (Rs.380) is a fine attempt that has much going for it; rich flavours and wine that you can actually taste in the sauce. For the price, the portion size is generous. The third appetiser we sampled was scallops on a bed of corn mush and pomegranates (Rs.880 for 4 scallops) was served in individual serving spoons  and had been cooked to perfection by someone who knows the value of scallops!

I love the fact that the restaturant has a preponderance of seafood dishes, where Delhi’s natural bird, chicken, takes a backseat. On the evening of our visit, wagyu was available, but was not reflected on the menu. The main courses impress. Linguine with prawns and scallops tossed in cream sauce (Rs.800) contains an extremely generous portion of fat, meaty scallops bursting with flavour. Broiled Lobster tail served with spicy pomegranate sauce (Rs.1400) was good if you avoided the sauce that tasted of sambhar masala! For desserts , we had a selection of ice-creams obviously made to order, that were flavoured with rose, Kaffir lime and rum raisin.





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